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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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oliver-morrisminor Full Licence
Joined: 14 Nov 2005 Posts: 998 Location: Brisbane, Redlands.
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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Keep it up Shawn looking good.
See you next Sunday,
with or without your Morrie,
there's always next year!
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Triumph Man valued contributor
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Triumph Man valued contributor
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Scouse moderator
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Posts: 5266 Location: Wollondilly, NSW
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Triumph Man valued contributor
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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grant69 moderator
Joined: 27 Jan 2004 Posts: 2796 Location: Cairns Nth Qld
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:59 am Post subject: |
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Top job Shawn, I always use an etch primer that can remain unpainted for a couple of months, this is because the thinners in paint can make the filler sink back, so you may have perfect panels when you prime them but after a week or two you can sometimes see repairs you thought were fine. So if I have done alot of repairs I always leave it for a couple of weeks before painting top coat , so I can fix any little spots that appear before top coating. I didn't leave my ute long enough (one week) and the side of the tray you can see where the filler has sunk back
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John Ballard valued contributor
Joined: 11 Feb 2004 Posts: 2646 Location: Dubbo NSW
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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John Ballard wrote: | Shawn. I hope you have reinforced bonnet across lip.
Mine cracked in two places after final paint and assembly.
Easy modification just fit 8mm rod accross lip in center and spot weld
Mine goes Right across bonnet, but about 300 each side of center will do.
Hope this helps.
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I've never heard of that fix before, but I can see where it'd be effective. I've noticed a fair bit of flex across the front lip. Roughly closing the bonnet wouldn't help either. I'll have to think about that one...
As for today's effort, it's a bit of a mixed bag.
Further priming and sanding, so not really much to show, except that the "from a certain angle, in a certain light" thing makes all the difference in the world. This front guard feels (to my hands at least) perfectly flat. I hadn't spray puttied the front guards, and the afternoon sun reminded me just how rough "bare metal" is.
Obviously, there's more work to be done here...
Secondly some useful tools. No one had mentioned the measuring cup and pouring spout in anything I'd read about painting, and I can't imagine doing a job like this without them. Simple, but sooo much cleaner and easier. They're both made of slippery, flexible plastic too, so you just let the paint dry on them and flex them to break it off. And to think that they were both impluse buys at the paintshop!
And that box of filthy rags isn't just a box of filthy rags. It's a "left over paint disposal device". I pour any dregs of left over paint and thinners into it and let it dry out. Previously, I might have poured it into a discreet spot in the garden...
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grant69 moderator
Joined: 27 Jan 2004 Posts: 2796 Location: Cairns Nth Qld
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Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:18 am Post subject: |
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Shawn, watch your rags as they can spontaneously combust, do not store in your house or shed overnight
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Triumph Man valued contributor
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Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 8:47 am Post subject: |
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grant69 wrote: | Shawn, watch your rags as they can spontaneously combust, do not store in your house or shed overnight |
I've herd of this to, i through my thinners & wax & grease remover rags in an old bucket with some water in it, just enough water to soak up into the rags, & i dont leave them in the shed overnight.
My old paint goes into an old tin & is left to dry out, then in the bin.
I once had a few old thinners rags lying on the floor, & started the grinder up for some tiny job, i noticed the sparks going strait onto the rags, lucky nothing went up.
I have a fire extinguisher & fire blanket in my shed.
Trev
Aus
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Shawn Full Licence
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dirty hands At rest
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Posts: 693 Location: Ipswich QLD
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Scouse moderator
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Posts: 5266 Location: Wollondilly, NSW
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:41 am Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, It all went pretty well.
It took a bit of fiddling to get the gun settings right, and I found that a much thinner mixture than recommended by the paint shop (1:5 paint to thinners) gave best results. Better shine off the gun and much less orange peel.
The compressor kept up well, only requiring short catch up times with no noticeable effect on pressure and finish.
What you see there is three decent coats, using about 3 litres of paint. I'll need to rub back a few runs and will probably do a final light coat before polishing. The practise I did on the bonnet and boot showed that the paint is very forgiving; runs sanded back easily, leaving no evidence. I didn't think it'd be enough, but 4 litres IS enough to do a whole car inside and out.
Most of my panel repairs are effectively invisble, but I've found three small dents and one scratch which I didn't know existed. They're tiny, but if they don't sand out with the wet & dry, they'll become features
All in all, I'm pretty happy with the results so far.
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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oliver-morrisminor Full Licence
Joined: 14 Nov 2005 Posts: 998 Location: Brisbane, Redlands.
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Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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The lights look good, but you cannot make a LOW LIGHT that way!
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Triumph Man valued contributor
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Triumph Man valued contributor
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