Wiring

[Triumph Man]

While it's quiet
This is the basics
I just sketched these out from memory, so tell me if i made any mistakes I'm sure you will







Conductor= The copper wire that carries the current.

Insulation= it covers the copper wire to keep the current in like a garden hose keeping the water in while it flows

Curcuit = the current must leave the pos of the battery & return to the neg for anything to work. (the return is through the steel body of the car to save wire)

Open curcuit= the curcuit is broken somewhere so the current can't run from the pos to the neg of battery (eg a switch open curcuits to turn of the lights)

Short curcuit= as it says the curcuit from pos to neg is shortened (eg a positive wire rubs through & touches the earthed body) it should blow the fuse, if not fused it heats up the wire like a toaster element untill it melts or sets something on fire.

Fuse= the fuse is just the weakest link so if something goes wrong it melts before the wireing, the fuse must be rated lower than the wireing so it is the weakest link.

Resistance= like when a garden hose is kinked, the flow is resisted, in wireing, when the flow is resisted it heats up at that point, a bad dirty connection, will resist the flow & heat up, it will eventualy burn out.
When you turn a heater fan on full it receives a full flow, when you turn it down the switch resists the flow (or kinks the hose) so the fan slows down, if you touch the back of the switch it heats up.
Globes resist the flow & heat up, untill there white hot, they eventualy burn out.

Relay= a relay is just a heavy on/off switch, it takes the load off the switching wire, an old switch

eg headlights are drawing a lot of current from the battery pos through the on off switch, through the high beam switch, a long length of wireing, & back through an earth connection on the body to the batt, there are 1/2 doz connections that can be dirty, dodgy (resistance), so the lights arn't getting a good flow, so they end up yellow, not bright white.

A relay with a heavy feed wire, (5mm 20 amp) & then heavy wire to the lights, gives the globs a good flow (if the earth is good) the old wireing & on/off switch only turn the relay on & off

Any questions I'm only a back yarder never been trained
Don't forget you cant put the smoke back in

Trev
Aus

[Pash]

Hey Trev,

great work with drawings.

would this example work?

run a wire from battery to fuse block. from a fuse run two wires, one to relay(30) the other to a switch or the switch should get the power from the ignition?

on the 2 speed wiper drawing where would you put the fuse and why doesnt the relay have direct power?

Michael

[Triumph Man]

[Pash]

just finshed a long day of wiring up 2 fuse boxes to 8 accesories. everything seems to be working pretty good except the brake lights.

i didnt come across a wire that is not connected. where is the switch for the brakelights. what color are the wires from original and does it need a relay.

thanks again for the diagrams a week ago they came in handy.

i drew up a schematic of the new wiring system which ill post up in the next few days.

cheers

Michael

[Pash]

problem solved.

what a day.

all my wiring is done.

only thing i have to do is make a bracket for the 2 speed wiper motor.

the unit is a late mini or leyland, it has a round body but has no legs compared to the original.

so what im thinking is cut a steel plate and mount it by the round body.

any one have any better suggestions.

also when making plates to mount the engine mounts, what thickness steel needed?, obviously the bolts go through the whole chassis rail so they need to be fairly long, what size bolt needed?

cheers

[Triumph Man]

Glad to here you found the brakelight switch, & all is working.

2mm for the bottom mount plate will do, but you don't bolt through the chassis, only through the lip, if you bolted through the chassis, it would just crush when you tightened it, & always come loose, when ever you bolt through a hollow box section you have to install a spacer, a hollow tube welded both ends.
Same with seat belts through the B pillar, if you don't use a spacer you will just crush the pillar as you tighten it up, thats one the engineers always look for.
Trev
Aus