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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:53 am Post subject: Trafficators & Indicators At Same Time |
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Hi All,
i was just wondering if someone could tell me what each of the pins were ie L X and +?
im looking at doing mike perry's 2 blinker can trafficator setup but using the return pin (whichever it is) to light the bulb on the indicator stalk.
Here's Mikes implementation (pretty darn neat):
http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1235140932_3580
Thanks,
Tom
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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Co-incidentally, I've just finished re-fitting my trafficators this evening, using that diagram as a basis.
I used two pin electronic flasher units, with the "X" terminal going to the bulbs.
To get the tell-tale light on the stalk to flash (instead of just glow), you need to snip the two wires, (greenred and greenwhite) on the tell tale bulb holder in the indicator switch and connect them to the "X" pins on the corresponding flasher units.
I had to try and be a smarta$%e as well, and get the bulbs on the trafficators to flash, at the same time as isolating the trafficators for my hazard lights. I should have just stuck to the diagram, but I got it (almost) in the end.
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:46 am Post subject: |
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hi shawn
so you ran 2 2pin cans and split the trafficator feed coming from the stalk and input it into the can then from the can into the indicator for that side and on that terminal you put a double spade or something and returned it to the lamp on the end of the stalk?
Cheers,
Tom
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, double spade on the x terminal of the flasher.
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 8:37 am Post subject: |
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hi shawn! sorry one last question just wondering what wattage the blinker relays you used were as you have the get the right rated relay.
or what make and model did you use and ill just buy those!
Cheers,
Tom
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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awesome! thanks for the update shawn! all working happily now?
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bigcarle Full Licence
Joined: 07 Nov 2007 Posts: 578 Location: lota, brisbane bayside
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:48 am Post subject: |
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funnily enough i dropped into jack reed's (reedspeed) place yesterday and this subject came up and he has his own wiring diagram for an A40 that would be suitable for the minor as well.
this enabled the Front/rear lights to blink while using the semiphores as normal and all operated from the one switch.
phone
redspeed mini mecca
07 3245 2384
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 8:24 am Post subject: |
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where did you come across your relays shawn i was thinking id just go to supercheap and buy 2 3 pin cans..
as for the wiring diagram carl i found another which uses 1 blinker can and 2 relays that i wired up a while ago but dunno if it over complicates the matter!
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2009 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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I went to the wreckers and paid next to nothing for three matching units. They did look at me a bit strangely though.
If they fail, I'll get new ones. My budget is always tight, so whem I'm experimenting I like to use as many (cheap) second hand parts as possible.
I think I saw the diagram with the relays too, but I think it is too complicated. Mine is busy enough with the added Hazard lights.
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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alas i can't seem to fix this shorting thing.. i found the bare
earting wire for the trafficator was not connected on the trafficator
end so i've reconnected it.. tested the trafficator with a wire and a
bullet and a battery outside the car but it must be something in the
green white connection somewhere! i know nothing about multimeters etc
so not sure how to proceed in finding the fault!
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 8:45 am Post subject: |
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That bare wire might be the retaining/tension cable for the headlining. If it is, it's not electrical.
I'll have to check the diode, but I think that the power flows from the end without the stripe to the end with the stripe. I think I've shown it the right way in the diagram.
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redback valued contributor
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 389 Location: Hervey Bay
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 10:23 pm Post subject: Re: EUREAKA! |
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mollythemoggie wrote: | ...just wondering you know how the trafficator has a spring/lock kind of thing then once free of that it pops up? the trafficator on the right won't go up unless i push it until the spring clicks then it goes up and down freely..
same with the left hand side but sometimes it can make it past the spring locky thing.. any suggestions??... |
I actually had a similar problem as well. Obviously, make sure everything is clean and oiled first.
If that doesn't work, there is a curved tab formed on the backing plate next to the catch mechanism. If you gently bend it open ever so slightly (like 0.5mm or less) with a screwdriver (go in from the top) you make it so the catch moves a shorter distance to disengage. But you have to be careful - opening it up too much will leave the catch permanantly disengaged and the trafficators will swing open by themselves when you go around corners.
This might not be the correct way to solve this, but it worked for me.
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