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John Ballard
valued contributor


Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2243
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it is steel though proper brake pipe just bought two rolls and a flange tool on the net



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John Ballard
valued contributor


Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2243
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am still proceeding with my Ute slowly its on 4 wheels with suspension all done and all brakes done, small leak in one line to booster so its being replaced with one re done from brake place tomorrow.
I am receiving a lot of help from forum members with parts and knowledge THANKS.
Also finding pretty easy to replace screws and some bolts with metric stainless steel for instance the door latch which have captive screws in the B post I re-tapped these M5 and used c/s M5 stainless screws.



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John Ballard
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Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2243
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an update, engine bay painted as is the cab, mudguards and tailgate ( love the colour Araluen Blue) .Motor is ready as is the gearbox, and the Tub which I had already replaced both mudguards and beaver tail on is at my B.I.L( a artist with sheet metal) who rebuilt my cab rear bubble. He is lining the inside with removable panels and welding up the side hooks.
A small windfall ( some cash paying work) means I have now a lot more parts including a full trim set,. seat belts wiring harness etc.etc
Getting ready to paint and fit doors I found one captive hinge plate had fallen out Eye Rolls
A google search revealed a fix on the MMOC in UK . As I had the guards off I cut a piece out behind the hinge plate and pulled it out the lower bracket that holds it had rusted away so a new one was made and welded in, next a plate was made to cover the hole and tacked welded in. This is all behind the mudguard and cannot be seen.
Now back to the fun bit spray painting. Red Ute Blue Ute



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John Ballard
valued contributor


Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2243
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2019 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After painting the cab and front mudguards I am trial fitting a lot of stuff door locks headlights and others. Constantly I find they are BSF and hard to get so I decided to change all I could to metric which are very common and available cheaply from places like Bunning's , Mitre 10 and other hardware shops and of course stainless or cad plated .
So now constant companions in the workshop are a couple of taps M6 and M5, locks and latches look better with stainless screws from the over painted and stripped head originals.



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Monk
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Posts: 588
Location: Canberra

PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2019 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes sense, John.



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zabond
Free Wheeling


Joined: 28 May 2012
Posts: 105
Location: Neerim East Victoria Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just remember that BSF is grade 8 high tensile while Bunnings are grade 5 or mild steel, may not matter but ya don't want your door falling off
Embarassed

Russ


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John Ballard
valued contributor


Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2243
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2019 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes understand that not replacing hinge bolts just chrome painted over screws like eye bracket and pin, door latch etc.
All high tensile bolts have been replaced where needed by like bolts.
Today I fitted new M5 stainless screws to hold the headlight buckets and bought stainless bolts and nuts for the lower front panel under the grill.



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