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Clockwork Orange -chopped top ute
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Kustombruce
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Joined: 09 Sep 2003
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Location: Canberra, where they put creative spirit in the water

PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick drive to the bottom of the street for the first photo with new wheels.
Front flairs will be OK, I will purchase new rolled rear guards and re shape the tray to fit. give me a week or so and the tray should be re done.
I still think the tray looks like it slopes to the back, so I will have a play with it as well.

Bruce


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tonynoosa
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Joined: 11 Oct 2004
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Location: noosa Queensland

PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:32 pm    Post subject: hey Reply with quote

Dam I have a mirror in the bathroom that I shave (parts of my face) with and it ain't that shiney.Hehehehehe


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jimmy_d
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Joined: 29 Aug 2009
Posts: 322
Location: Melbourne eastern suburbs

PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting project,enjoyed reading the progress etc and the unfortunate difficulties that arose but I guess that happens to all of us at times.Your tray does look like it falls to the back but it also looks fairly level if you look at it without taking the rest of the car into account,maybe the setup did not take into account the rake of the chassis once sitting on the road,just a thought! My project has temporarily stalled so I am enjoying re-reading other peoples project threads until I can get going again,hope your track problems are sorted and your on the road soon..


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to drop the front about 40 mm, so the top of the front tyres are level with the guard. the rear needs to be played with as the tyres are about 40mm smaller in diameter than the ones which came off.

That might fix the tray angle, smaller rear guards will also help.

PS: The Battery has died (permanently) so looks like I will have to re design the battery box to fit an Optima DC51. at least then I can have the radio on with out the battery dying.

Bruce


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tonynoosa
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Joined: 11 Oct 2004
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Location: noosa Queensland

PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 11:03 pm    Post subject: same o Reply with quote

Bruce I had the same problem with my tray.
I added 40mm of timber across the back of my rig to get a better stance.
my first thoughts were the lower the front but it all went to buggery so to the rear I went Just meant longer bolts.


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libbor
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Joined: 01 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it looks like we are back to

1284mm for the front
1278mm for the rear

with up to 25mm more if you need it

Correct?

Cheers

Libbor


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep
1284 mm all round depending on what book you take to the engineer.
as soon as I get back to night classes I will take 4 mm from each hub, that will get the front correct.
One of my rear wheels (yes the new ones) would not hold pressure, turns out the weld on the rim where they weld the circumference has a fine hole, I will now POR15 the weld to stop the leak.

One day I will get it done

this is what I have been getting ready for paint while I have been on Holidays


Bruce


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quick update
The ford Sled is painted so will leave the shed in the next week or so, a few issues with the paint which need to be fixed.

With Clockwork - I have cut off one of the old guards and have mocked up the smaller rear guard it only stick out about 30mm.





I have had problems with one of the wheels, it had a small hole in the weld, I have POR15 the crack, its holding air now.

Bruce


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diff now 30 mm shorter. Axles shortened by 12mm each
I needed to re set my pinion angle anyway so spring saddles removed again.
wheels are now only 15mm over original.
With the welds ground smooth you would never know it had been changed.




Bruce


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libbor
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bruce

Looking good, Sometimes that vsb14 is a real bugger , isn't it

I didn't realize that axle tubes were that thick.

Good old toyota

See you tomorrow


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The axle tubes surprised me as well, I was thinking they would be 3mm but they are about 7mm
It seemed to take forever to cut through them with the cutoff saw, at least I could get some penetration with the welds.

I need to take if for a drive to see if I have sorted out the axle tramp by re setting the pinion angle.

let you know tomorrow

B


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took Clockwork for a drive, still tramping badly, diff is rotating about 15 deg due to the torque of the engine. So I have designed a steady bar which will run from the top of the diff at the back and the front will be mounted to the cross tube which runs between the chassis rails It will be mounted to the bolts at the back of the diff which hold the plate on and the front will be adjustable.

Just hope it works.

Bruce


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PV_Mark
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Joined: 04 Jan 2010
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Location: melbourne

PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 4 link rear would be an easy conversion and will more than handle the torque therefor stopping the tramp. Mc donald bros racing sell kits and they are quite cheap.... Just my thoughts
Mark


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, 4 link if I was building from scratch maybe, but not when so far along.

So
Traction bar made


Now it all works

PS: Tyres are real close to the springs, 9mm clearance, If I had to go to the original track with my 185/65/15 tyres I would only have 2 mm clearance to the head of the coach bolt.
[/list]


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re checked the front for track today so I can get ready to machine up hubs to get my track right.

only a small problem:
I have to bring the front wheels in 31mm to get the track to within 25mm of standard.
Based on the clearance from the side wall of the tyres (185/60/14), I have 15 mm per side or the tyre touches the trunnion/ swivel pin rubber.
So I will endeavor to bring the wheels in but remove the rubber for the engineer inspection, which should give me an extra 2-3 mm per side.

I will still be over maximum track by 14 mm if I want 6mm clearence.

so don't try and put tyres bigger than 175 on the front of a Minor or you will be over track or rubbing on the trunnions.

Clockwork is still pushing to my limits.

Bruce


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libbor
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes bruce mine are 175 and the biggest i know i can go.

Why dont you shorten the control arms and the shock arms. it welds well as it is cast steel.

i haven't ruled it out for mine

that way you can have your clearance and your track will be right

So before you go butchering your nice hubs, consider this.


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a bad idea, I have a lot of spares to play with.
I am still working out if I can get Diamond back white walls in 175 with allowable diameter.

I can always put the 185's on my Zephyr.

Bruce


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libbor
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you shorten them, you can have the tyres you want on there.

I was talking to a guy the other day about shortening. he said he must have shortened or lengthened about 4-500 arms and has never had one break. He modifies speedway cars.

Working out the top one will be an art. its goes back on an angle. It needs to be right for the camber. Maybe its a good opportunity to give the morry some neg camber


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grant69
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you shorten the control arms you would have to have the arms crack tested and weld penetration xrayed, you wouldn't want them failing at 100kmh sending you headlong into a semi


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have dragged the parts out from under the house, I will clean them up and have a play.
I can get 2" white walls 175/70/14 which will give me the clearance from the uprights and have diameter within specs for $275 each + postage from John Cain. so I can go either way.


Bruce


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I have shortened the lower arms 18 mm each. The top arms will be a bit harder as I have to work out 2 sets of angles.

Looks like it will work




Bruce


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libbor
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking at those arms, it looks like they welded quite well. Is there a mathematical way of working out the tops? Or is it a tack and see operation


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problems with the welds, I put a big v in them so got full penetration, mig didn't play up, I have left most of the weld in place as it will sit between the pressed steel plate, it inside will be behind my tube shock mount.
I have looked at the top mount and I will make a jig to hold it all in place, but I think it will be a cut and see approach, glad I have a few spares to play with.

Maths is bloody hard when you get older.

Bruce


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libbor
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

from memory its on a 45deg angle so i think you will probably have to take double off ie 36mm.


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Kustombruce
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the hard bit is, I have to shorten it by 19 mm but keep the top link on the same plane so I might need to use 2 arms to get it to work.

It's only time, and a few new swear words

B


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