tortron Got the hang of this ...
Joined: 02 Mar 2008 Posts: 280 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 6:03 pm Post subject: Trafficators - a how to guide |
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Early Type Lucas
I suggest you first clean all moving parts, piston and connections and earths. Press down on piston from the top of the trafficator to check if it is binding, if the solenoid is not mounted correctly it will cause the piston to bind – this can be remedied by adjusting the “prongs”
To disassemble
Remove screw from end of trafficator arm
Slide metal arm down to remove
Note slim 12v 3w festoon bulb
Note spring contact with “hook” facing upwards
It appears the plastic arm may be removed only as one unit by punching or drilling out the pivot pin
To remove solenoid
Remove screw at bottom of solenoid
Detach bullet connector and insulation
Top to bottom – screw, insulating “chip”, bullet connector, and insulation paper.
Pry tab near pivot of arm to release bulb circuit
Press down from top of trafficator on piston (bypassing “safety hook on top of piston”) pushing it into the solenoid
Slide solenoid downwards (note the prongs at top solenoid mount)
Extend arm to ease removal of piston from pivot (piston has a spring loaded clip at the top)
Clean all moving parts and piston well to remove grime. Clean/sand electrical contact points
Reassemble
I find this easier
Place the piston back in the solenoid
Place insulating paper under solenoid
Hook piston safety catch onto arm pivot
Mount solenoid under the top mount prongs
Replace bullet connector and screw
Again press down on piston to ensure it is true and not binding
Bench test
Connect bullet connector and part of the body to a good 12v battery (either polarity, the trafficator will still function)
If there is still no movement it is time to check the coiling. If the coating is clearly flaking away it may well be allowing the solenoid to short out.
To recoil you will need
Soldering iron
Solder
Coated copper wire – 0.63mm 22BS gauge 100g (this gives a perfect length with a little excess for one trafficator)
With solenoid removed cut the wire going to the bullet connector
Pry tab at bottom of solenoid
Uncoil the wire – there will be approx 1000 coils
Note the insulating paper at each end
Slide down the top part with the two prongs and remove the wire where it is soldered on
Slide wire back under this part and solder – be sure to remove the wire coating
Looking down the cylinder you will be recoiling anticlockwise.
Continue coiling back and forth until you have 9 layers.
You should finish at the bottom end of the cylinder. Secure wire by pressing down the tab.
Solder this end back to the bullet connector
You can now bench test again without reassembly
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