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philthomas Full Licence
Joined: 19 Feb 2006 Posts: 295 Location: Murwillumbah NSW
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Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:33 pm Post subject: electronic ignition module |
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Anybody any knowledge or experience with an electronic ignition module fitted to a Morry distributor? See them advertised every now and then and have heard both positive and negative feedback. Like the idea of not needing to check, adjust or replace the points or condenser again but wonder if they are truly 'trouble free"?
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NZJLY Free Wheeling
Joined: 14 Apr 2005 Posts: 103 Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
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philthomas Full Licence
Joined: 19 Feb 2006 Posts: 295 Location: Murwillumbah NSW
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Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:30 am Post subject: |
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More details on the NZ $30 conversion please!
Also have a Datto powered Moggie and haven't seen an electronic unit for them advertised under Aus $150!
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Shawn Full Licence
Joined: 16 Sep 2005 Posts: 385 Location: Redlands, Brisbane, Australia
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Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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I've done the same (probably) Nissan distributor conversion. It's moderately popular with the Mini crowd. You use the electronic distributor from a N12 Pulsar/Astra, cutting off the clamp plate on the dizzy, swapping the drive dog for the Morry one and modding the advance plate to limit the advance. No machining of the body is required - It's already the right length and diameter.
It's a simple enough conversion you can do at home. You do need a timing light to set the timing, though.
I'm very happy with mine. I did have a couple of "user error" problems early on, but I've had over a year of trouble free use.
Check out this thread from the Ausmini forum; it shows how it's developed:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1498
The main issue (as I understand it) with these conversions is that they work a little too well on start up and can cause backlash (from firing on the first cranking stroke) and subsequent broken starter pinions. The easy way to overcome this on a Morry is to operate the starter first, and then flick on the ignition whe the engine is spinning.
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Boeing Bob Got the hang of this ...
Joined: 08 Jul 2007 Posts: 284 Location: SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
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redback valued contributor
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 389 Location: Hervey Bay
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Tadhg Got the hang of this ...
Joined: 26 Jun 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Toowoomba
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Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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I've put one of the cheap kits in my Mini. Well, I've put two in there... The first one was a Blue Module bought from eBay from an MG eBay shop, they treated me brilliantly, and gave a good price. Unfortunately, when my car was converted from -ve earth to +ve earth, the coil was left as +ve earth, which, whilst it works fine with points, fries these electronic modules. So it's worth checking. I ended up buying a replacement Red Module from Simon BBC in the UK. Was cheap - and the A$ is still nice and high against the GB£.
Once I finally figured the problem with the coil, it was easy to install. My Mini is the 2nd car and rarely gets used, but it was easy to install (very, very easy) and, once it was re-tuned (it needed a bit more retardation), it ran beautifully. I should mention, too, I've got a 43D4 - same as a 45D4, but without vacuum advance.
And the Red module is an updated design - it has better heat dissipation through the baseplate (they include a little heatsink paste, too), and is a bigger module. The one weakness with running the Blue modules is that, if you sit around with the ignition on and the engine not running, they reasonably quickly (within a couple of minutes) run into and above their optimum heat range and burn out. This is less of a problem with the Red modules.
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philthomas Full Licence
Joined: 19 Feb 2006 Posts: 295 Location: Murwillumbah NSW
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Guess it is obvious whether the coil is +ve or -ve (haven't looked yet!)?
Ordered a red module from SimonBBC last week and was pleased with the price, module included new rotor and also bought a new cap - $83 delivered.
Also ordered a kit for my datson engine from America, $101 landed which I thought was OK as the Datson people here seem to want $150+.
Did discover during my research that my Morris 948 engine has a 27D distributer which appears to be from a later mini? Have a few original 23D distributers here so will be fitting the module to the best looking one of those.
Also read the suggestion that spark plug might need to be increased after converting to an electronic module?
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Tadhg Got the hang of this ...
Joined: 26 Jun 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Toowoomba
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Posted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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I didn't find it obvious whether the coil was +ve or -ve earth - but I will say that the description with the kit was correct. Though, it must be said, a diagram would've been nice - you need to spend for the Pertronix kit (which is, apparently, very similar) to get the diagram with the kit. Part of my problem was that I assumed what was already in the car was correct.
Basically, the wires from the ignition should go to the +ve side of the coil, and the wire to the dizzy should go to the -ve side of the coil. It's all explained on the second page here. So... Go to that page, and you don't have to buy the Pertronix kit.
I did recheck the gaps, but, given I needed a tune before the kit, I put it in and got it tuned by an experienced mechanic (it needed it - new needles in the twin SU's, plugs changed from BPES6 to BPES5 (I was told that wasn't dependant on the plugs, just on the fuel), timing changed). But, given these cheaper kits use the existing coil (which is designed for points), there's not a great capacity to increase the spark gap. We're not gaining higher spark voltages (which enables a bigger gap), we're just getting better spark dwell/timing and the end of points as a consumable and water/points issues.
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