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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 7:52 pm    Post subject: Lil Jen Reply with quote

Hi Everyone, happy to be apart of this forum, have been researching here for a while before I bought our (me and the kids) first Morris. It's a 53 series 11, bog standard rolling shell that's been stripped. Not a bad thing as I could see for what it is. It came with most parts,3x 950 series 11 engines and 3x series 11 gearboxes plus other spares (carby's,dizzys,starter motors etc).
I don't really have a plan for this, I'm winging it a bit,also the only condition I was allowed to buy it is wifey could pick the colour and she doesn't like Morris beige


Thanks for now and I'm sure I'll have many questions coming soon

Cheers Pete


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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just seeing if these links to photos work.


https://i.imgur.com/PpVfkrD.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fhUTdwA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pf2lVhq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DQNxeUu.jpg

Cheers
Pete


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John Ballard
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Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2646
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loks good and fairly rust free, good luck and get started



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frosty
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Joined: 23 Dec 2003
Posts: 3828
Location: 4559 near a big pineapple, Qld

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Lil Jen Reply with quote

ocsum wrote:


Thanks for now and I'm sure I'll have many questions coming soon

Cheers Pete


Fire away ~ that is what we are all here for ... to help

Looks a good one to start with. Seems to have had a light bingle on the front left at some stage. What is the colour on the ID plate?

I see that you are up Toowoomba way.



There is a great Morris club in town. Very friendly and affable members
Join up and there will be lots of help and advice there locally too

http://www.morrisdownunder.com/downs/#ab2


cheers
frosty



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~ I replaced my rooster with a duck.

Now, I wake up at the quack of dawn.

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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Frosty,
according to ID plate it's light grey (may be Birch Grey ??) FAB 21/ 227220. I did take photo's of all the ID plates and no where can I see or work out what year it is,theres no year stamped anywhere? It's chassis # deos fall in the range of Aug 1952 to Sep 1956 according to this site https://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/Identify.htm

https://i.imgur.com/aGf1THI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8ErUuDq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GadqoMA.jpg - Stamped on fire wall

What do you think, is there a code for this?

Cheers
Pete


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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Ballard wrote:
Loks good and fairly rust free, good luck and get started


Thanks John, I'm just sorting the 3x 950 motors I have to see if they are any good at the moment.

Cheers
Pete


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John Ballard
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Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2646
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just reading your post again, Series 11 had 803cc engine but to restore better and a lot cheaper to rebuild a 950 Minor 1000 engine.
1953 first of the OHV engines but should have a "cheesegrater" grill.



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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi John,
You are correct it does have a cheese grater grill, but I would have though there would be a way to tell exactly what year it is and not a year range. Sorry used to working on Holdens and Fords.


Cheers Pete


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Scouse
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Posts: 5266
Location: Wollondilly, NSW

PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2020 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Pete, welcome to the forum.

You have a late 1953 Series II, November/December build from the UK so it would have arrived out here in 1954 if it was an export car from new.

Being a UK build makes your car different from 95% of Morris Minors in Australia. Most were locally assembled from kits sent out from the UK but yours came out as a complete car.

As it is a UK build, the musuem at Gaydon will have access to the original build details if you wanted to restore the car to it's original appearance. Paint, trim, engine/gearbox numbers are all on record. They will also show where the car went from new - either a local UK dealer or for export.

As John says, the 950 engine is a better option over the little original. So much so that there's very few Series IIs running the original engine.

Your car would have had the wier motor tucked up under the dash originally but someone has wisely decided to convert it to the later engine bay set up - much easier access if needed now.



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Scott
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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2020 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Scott,
How do you figure this from the ID plate? Is there a chart showing this. I had a look on line and the most detailed chart I could find was this https://potteries.mmoc.org.uk/Identify.htm

I'll look into the Gaydon museum and see what I find


Cheers
Pete


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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2020 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi every one,
I have gone over my 3x spare engines with some suprise and disappointment.
1st engine was seized, got it unseized but when I took the head off no4 piston was rusty from a blown head gasket.....Bugger I was told it was a runner and the big end bearings didn't have any scratches or wear on them.

2nd engine we checked valve clearances, had a bit of trouble with the dizzy/leads but got her going, did compression test on 3 seperate occassions and all are around the 125 to 140 psi (dry)

3rd engine ,I'm not going to bother as if I can see it's a rebuild job even though she turns freely.

So I'm looking at the front hubs now as the actual first thing I do on the car and this dumb founds me on my car, some dip shit (sorry for language) decided to angle grind the hub diameter down to fit some other brand stocko rims ,I'm guessing because they didn't have the morris rims but still why butcher the hubs??? Another thing I found was I took the LHS hub off as it felt notchy.
Also a couple of the wheel studs have been ground. So I'm thinking of ditching the fromt brakes and installing disc brakes up front - already doing a fair amount of research on this forum.

https://i.imgur.com/XxbOroo.jpg - Front LHS hub
https://i.imgur.com/6D8EgJh.jpg - Trying to work out the original diameter


Question - what should the diameter of the hub where the rim locates on should be on an original hub? Guys with Disc brakes do you run Morris rims or just mags to suit your hub?

Thanks for reading

Cheers
Pete


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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Everyone,
it's been a fair while since I posted, priorities haven't been on Lil Jen lately (for months but thought to add an update.
Bought a 4K & 5 spd corolla engine, was told it was a good going engine. Big risk. But put engine on a car tire and some wood chocks, wired it up and it started and ran great, no smoke. Phew relief. This wasn't my first pick of engines, as before I mentioned this morry came with 3x engines & 3 g'boxes. So I sold them and bought a subaru forester with a EJ 20 & 5 spd. They are a great engine and I like the power out of the suby and although I could find limited info on the internet of anyone doing this I thought to give it a go I did read some where it couldn't be done but what the hell, the whole car cost $400 and drove it home in a 3hr trip. We'll surprise surprise it fit the engine bay except the bloody steering rack and chassis runners, I was thinking of making a steam pipe exhaust manifold which would raise the engine about 70 - 80mm . I tried kicking the engine/G'box to about 4 deg but to no avail, hence the 4k corolla. Lesson learned! Now I have been cutting rust out of the damn thing, has been taking about nearly a year to do this but an happy with the front which is where I'm up to. There was a fair bit in the front A pillar down the bottom where it meats the sill, some mud and crap there so no wonder it rotted out.

Cheers Pete

https://i.imgur.com/v45Jem6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gYfjiZH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dPieWHp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/APYfY3l.jpg


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John Ballard
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Joined: 11 Feb 2004
Posts: 2646
Location: Dubbo NSW

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lower part od A and B pillars can be bought. Best quality and fit Andrew Eggleton UK fast post.



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DON58VAN
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 863
Location: Sydney/Bowral

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2022 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good work Pete.

I did the same jobs on a Minor a few years ago. Very time consuming to do it properly but satisfying when done.

BTW I note that your inner guard/flitch panel flange is straight. There is a modification shown in the factory workshop manuals (and it was done in the factory on later models) to bend it inwards to reduce the chance of the flange slicing the tyres.



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Don
1970 2-door -- on the road
Trying to get some Morry projects done, but ultra slow. ;(
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ocsum
Got the keys


Joined: 16 Feb 2020
Posts: 38
Location: Toowoomba,QLD

PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2022 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Don , I'll have a look at the manual at that mod, just worries if the seam is bent then this could encourage rust.
Cheers
Pete


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DON58VAN
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Joined: 25 Sep 2008
Posts: 863
Location: Sydney/Bowral

PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Pete

Yes, bending over the seam creates an area where mud can collect. However, it isn't bent over so it is flush against the inner guard, creating an inaccessible gap. It is more of a curl, so that there is no sharp edge facing the tyre. So there is a gap that is wide enough so that it can be checked and easily cleaned.

As long as you check when the car is washed that there is no dirt/mud accumulating under the 'curl', there won't be a problem.

I am looking forward to seeing more of how your project is progressing.

Don



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Don
1970 2-door -- on the road
Trying to get some Morry projects done, but ultra slow. ;(
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