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Skidmond valued contributor
Joined: 18 Dec 2003 Posts: 1064 Location: Tasmania
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redback valued contributor
Joined: 06 Jun 2004 Posts: 389 Location: Hervey Bay
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jg1982 I can steer now
Joined: 19 Jan 2006 Posts: 185 Location: Adelaide
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 12:18 am Post subject: |
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I've done it numerous times by using a switch to ground the negative terminal of the coil (or the points). If you have a tacho in the car then it's probably connected to the negative terminal of the coil already, otherwise run a separate wire, preferably not one that is too obvious or a thief could just cut it.
An alternative or even additional measure is interrupting power to the fuel pump, it won't stop a carby car from starting but it'll die within 30 seconds or so.
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Scouse moderator
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Posts: 5266 Location: Wollondilly, NSW
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:55 am Post subject: |
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Alarms are pretty good these days. I've fitted a Rhino kit into a couple of my cars & haven't had any false alarms.
The main problem with alarms is the cheap door switches that they come with. Get some good quality switches that don't corrodeor stick & you won't have an issue.
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grant69 moderator
Joined: 27 Jan 2004 Posts: 2796 Location: Cairns Nth Qld
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:17 am Post subject: |
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I remove the rotor button, cheap and effective, saying that I had a valiant "stolen" when I was 17, they rolled it around the corner and couldn't start it, so just left it
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John Ballard valued contributor
Joined: 11 Feb 2004 Posts: 2646 Location: Dubbo NSW
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Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Skidmond
It is so simple.
Wire cable through concealed switch (I use the under dash speedo light switch) to ground fit other end to cable from coil to points.
I splice mine in and conceal under wiring loom.
If you have door courtesy switches you can also go through them if you want to.
Turn switch on car won't start. That,s it.
open door car won't start.
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Skidmond valued contributor
Joined: 18 Dec 2003 Posts: 1064 Location: Tasmania
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Scouse moderator
Joined: 15 Sep 2003 Posts: 5266 Location: Wollondilly, NSW
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dirty hands At rest
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Posts: 693 Location: Ipswich QLD
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:05 am Post subject: |
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Don't earth if running electronic ignition, you will cook it.
If your still running points take the dizzy out & drill a small hole in the bottom of the cup, run your wire up underneith out of sight.
The other end of the wire goes to your hidden switch & then to the body, it will earth the points & it wont fire.
by doing it this way it stops thieves just cutting the coil wire off & running a wire strait from the pos on the battery to the coil, it still wont fire.
Trev
Aus
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dirty hands At rest
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Posts: 693 Location: Ipswich QLD
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 6:41 am Post subject: |
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withdrawals
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mnrmax Free Wheeling
Joined: 22 Mar 2005 Posts: 122 Location: Tweed, Northern NSW
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Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Trev, could you explain again where to run the wire through the distributor to hide it?
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Triumph Man valued contributor
Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 1890
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:27 am Post subject: |
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Mark the dizzy, so you know which side of it is out of sight, towards engine on dato, or underneith on morrie, then pull it out of the motor, remove the base plate (pionts screwed to) & look into the bottom past the weights & springs, drill a whole about 2 mm dia through the bottom of the cup part, run the wire up through the hole & glue it to the inside of the dizzy so it cant be rubbed through by any moving parts.
Conect to power side of points.
Trev
Aus
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tonynoosa valued contributor
Joined: 11 Oct 2004 Posts: 556 Location: noosa Queensland
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:43 pm Post subject: simple |
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TAKE THE KEYS WITH YOU!!!!
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grant69 moderator
Joined: 27 Jan 2004 Posts: 2796 Location: Cairns Nth Qld
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Tadhg Got the hang of this ...
Joined: 26 Jun 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Toowoomba
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Skidmond valued contributor
Joined: 18 Dec 2003 Posts: 1064 Location: Tasmania
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Tadhg Got the hang of this ...
Joined: 26 Jun 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Toowoomba
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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Morries (for reasons unknown here) aren't everyone's cup of tea, but more people love HR's than not. Especially in tribal Ipswich - Holden or Ford only - what's a Toyota?
I would've thought that there'd be a gated area for the cars at the Police Station - it's not like there's heaps of parking around that area. Well, not when you're going to the hospital (next door for people not familiar!). I was involved with building the Police Station in Toowoomba, and, although there weren't gates on there, you did have to go into the middle of the compound to get to the cars. No, I did not steal stickers or light bars... I reckon the force shouldn't be too annoyed with people driving around with light bars on their cars. I mean, stolen ones undoubtedly cost the force (hang on, it's "service" now, isn't it?) some money, but I know that if I were to speed (I wouldn't do that!) I would slow down if I saw a car in the distance with a light bar... Police or not.
I guess you're more likely to have people of questionable character around a police station than most other places... Maybe that German Shepherd was offered a nice piece of meat, to lure him out of the car? Or maybe he was a nice dog, not a nasty dog...
Guess you might have to adjust Trev's advice a little to drill the right spot on the HR's dizzy...
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tonynoosa valued contributor
Joined: 11 Oct 2004 Posts: 556 Location: noosa Queensland
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:45 pm Post subject: Reason |
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The reason that they are locked in shed and only allowed out on club runs is Quote: | It isnt unusual for light bars and stickers to go missing off Police cars parked either very embarrassing |
For sale all the gear to make your morrie a TAXI..
Even frosty could pick up chicks in a Taxi
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frosty moderator
Joined: 23 Dec 2003 Posts: 3834 Location: 4559 near a big pineapple, Qld
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:14 pm Post subject: Build your own car immobiliser |
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Reproduced from Autospeed Magazine
Issue: 421 Section: Technical Features 9 March, 2007
The World's Best DIY Immobiliser
Build your own car immobiliser that is simple, cheap and very, very effective.
By Adrian Cuesta
This article was first published in December 1998. Since that time it has proved to be enormously popular. However, many people who like the idea do not have the electronic skills to build it. If you are not familiar with double pole relays and the like, don't try to build this project!
If wiring up a couple of relays doesn't worry you and you can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter, this immobiliser is for you.
You need only:
12 volt heavy duty car relay;
12 volt Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) relay;
12 volt flashing LED;
reed switch that closes when a magnet is nearby;
pushbutton that opens when pushed;
broken remote from a car alarm;
and a magnet.
Most of these bits and pieces you can get from an electronics shop.
Like all immobilisers, this one shuts down the car's EFI or ignition system. But what's different about ours is that if the thief steals your keys (with the remote control attached), he still can't drive away with your car. That makes it just about unique!
So how does it work?
The guts of the remote transmitter case are removed and the magnet is placed inside. The circular magnet from a tiny speaker has been used here. When you enter the car, you casually swipe the transmitter case past a special place within the car's cabin. This place might be on the centre console, a part of the dashboard - pretty well anywhere. Hidden behind the area that you swipe is the reed switch - a switch that is sensitive to magnetic fields. The swiping triggers the reed switch that in turn switches off the immobiliser.
Because the reed switch is located behind the plastic of the dash or centre console, there's nothing to see. The swiping movement can be quite natural - part of your hand movement as you put on your seatbelt or settle yourself in the seat. That means that even if a potential thief is watching you closely, he doesn't get any clues.The remote (at right) triggers the reed switch (left) whenever it comes close. Only you know the location of the reed switch!
When you want to arm the immobiliser, you press the button. The pushbutton can be in complete view - the thief gains nothing by ripping it out and either disconnecting the wires or bridging them. When you press the button, the on-dash LED starts to flash, indicating the car is now immobilised. It also reminds you to switch off the system when you re-enter the car.
The Circuit
When this DPDT relay is not pulled-in (ie has no voltage applied to the coil), it connects the LED to 12 volts, causing it to flash. At the same time it also stops power flow to the heavy-duty automotive relay, in turn disabling a vital car starting circuit. The car won't start - the immobiliser is activated. Disconnecting the car battery switches off the flashing LED but makes no difference to the position of the DPDT relay. (Note that the LED is polarised and so must be connected the right way.)
You want to go somewhere, so you swipe past the open reed switch with your transmitter case. This momentarily closes the reed switch, allowing power to flow through the DPDT relay's coil. It pulls in, with the second coil power supply path through the top contact causing it to latch - that is, stay pulled in, even after the reed switch has opened. The bottom contact of the DPDT relay then feeds power to the heavy-duty relay, causing it to pull in and complete the car starting circuit.
You drive to your chosen location and want to disable the car. A single push of the normally closed pushbutton breaks the latching circuit of the DPDT relay, causing the relay to open. In turn, this stops the power feed to the automotive relay, and so it also opens, disabling the car. The LED starts to flash showing the immobiliser is set.
Installation
The system can be installed in three separate parts: the DPDT relay, the heavy duty automotive relay, and the reed and pushbutton switches. We mounted the DPDT relay in a 35mm film canister. The relay that we used fitted neatly into the canister, with the wiring passing through a hole drilled in the cap. The canister was mounted under the dash within the wiring loom.
The heavy-duty 12 volt relay should be mounted close to where you break the vital starting circuit. A number of different approaches can be used. In an older car, inserting the relay in the low tension ignition coil power feed will prevent the car starting, as will open-circuiting the ignition key starting signal to the starter motor solenoid. However, if you do the latter, the car can still be "jump started" - not what's wanted!. If there are high current fusible links used for different circuits, it's easy to keep pulling the links until the car is as dead as a doornail and then wire the relay to open this circuit.
Finally, if your car has an electric fuel pump, the immobiliser can disable this. However, note that both EFI and carby cars will still start and run for a short period even with the fuel pump stopped. This might be just enough time for the thief to drive to the middle of the nearest major road intersection before the car dies!
The 'arming' pushbutton can be mounted anywhere on the dash. Note that if this button is accidentally pressed while you are driving along, the engine will immediately stop. Thus you should mount it where accidental activation is impossible.
The location of the reed switch is very important. It should not be awkward to access when you are seated and should also not be so close to the ignition switch that the immobiliser is disabled by the thief without him realising it! Its location is best picked when you are seated in the car. Attach the reed switch to the inside of the plastic panel using a smear of Liquid Nails or similar adhesive.
The most complex part of the system is the wiring of the DPDT relay. We built the complete system on the bench so that we could easily check that everything worked. With the system mocked up, the flashing LED should work as soon as power is connected. Swiping the hand control past the reed switch should switch off the LED, causing the DPDT and heavy-duty relays to click. Pressing the button should cause the relays to again click and the LED to start flashing.
Once the system is operating on the bench, you can install it in the car.
PS ... there are heaps of articles in the archives as well
Have a search
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_107975/article.html
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melburgorbust Full Licence
Joined: 13 Nov 2007 Posts: 316 Location: Melbourne, Vic
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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that is absolutely brilliant! definitely building one for the 122S!! an extension on the idea, what about magnetising the door key and having the reed switch hidden near there?
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bd581 valued contributor
Joined: 14 Jun 2004 Posts: 136
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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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now that i've sold the car i cat tell.
On my old VL Commo i had the switch next to the seat belt. So when i buckle up i can flick the switch without anyone seeing and when i undid the belt, the buckle would fall on it and automatically switch it off.
Thats handy if you have seatbelts.
Found that trick after a friends VL broke down and nobody in town could fix it. Turns out it had a switch like that and the owner didn't know.
Best bet i think is get a red light for the dash and a sticker made saying you have an alarm. They work as good as any other alarm. If somebody really wants your car, no alarm will stop them from taking it
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