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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:08 am Post subject: a12 + temp and pressure gauge? |
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Hi Guys,
just wondering if I wanted to wire up a smiths water temp gauge to my 1960 morris 1000 running an a12 would I require a voltage regulator as from what I could read here it looks like it..
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Temperature_Gauge
has anyone run these gauges up before? I have the sender unit in place for the electrical gauge.. but the pressure gauge I was wondering how I'd go about fitting that?
Cheers,
Tom
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libbor Banned for bullying.
Joined: 01 Feb 2009 Posts: 1341 Location: Ghoulbon
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 9:49 am Post subject: |
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Tom
I presume you are talking about an aftermarket oil pressure and water temp gauge.
For your water temp gauge you will just need to wire it up as you would any other accessory. No regulator needed at all. The smiths gauges operate on the same resistance values as most Japanese vehicles and therefore you will not need to buy a smiths temperature sender unit. Just try it and see where it reads. With Cecil, I have fitted a Smiths temp gauge and am using the original Toyota sender. It sits at around 90deg with the engine at normal operating temperature.
For your oil gauge just wire it in parallel with your temp gauge except for the signal wire. You will need to connect the signal wire to your original oil pressure sender wire unless you wish to still run the oil light in which case you will need to run an extra wire out to the engine bay.
Then depending on if you wish to still have the light or not. If you wish to still run the light you will need to screw a 't' piece into the oil filter housing where the oil pressure sender unit is fitted now. Then, screw the original sender into the 't' piece and connect the original wire to it. Then screw in your new gauge sender unit into the spare threaded hole on the 't' piece. Connect the new wire you ran into engine bay to this sender and then it all should work.
If you dont want the oil light anymore just unscrew the original sender unit out of the oil filter housing and screw your new sender unit into this hole. Connect your original wire to this. Then behind the dash locate the wire going to your oil light which will be a green wire with a yellow stripe. Disconnect that from the bulb and connect it straight to your new oil gauge.
Connect one side of the new gauges light wires to the earth that you are using for the gauges and then connect the other side to one of the red wires going to your original dash illumination bulbs.
Libbor
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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libbor Banned for bullying.
Joined: 01 Feb 2009 Posts: 1341 Location: Ghoulbon
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 10:05 am Post subject: |
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They are very common. Anyone that stocks sender units will have one. Try repco or your local parts shop. It will probably be a VDO branded one or TRIDON
the gauge your looking at buying looks right. The outer chrome ring will match the one on your speedo
No need for you to work out the thread size. Just go in to the shop and quote part no TPS006 (Tridon Brand) and ask for a 't' piece to suit that oil pressure switch.
Cheers
Last edited by libbor on Thu May 12, 2011 10:40 am; edited 1 time in total |
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 10:14 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Darren! and once this thing is on the road and everything is just doing the business im heading to canberra with a case of beer in tow! have a preference?
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libbor Banned for bullying.
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 10:53 am Post subject: |
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Thank you Darren,
Just bought a T Piece had to confirm it was a 1/8 thread..
no worries re the Jim Beam! should have the moggie back this week.. he says it's done he just wanted to test it when cold.. (today it's 7 degrees here in syd so should be cold enough)
So.. if i get it back this week i was thinking maybe next week sunday I might drive down if it's doing what it should.. but I'll let you know.. (work's been hectic!)
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grant69 moderator
Joined: 27 Jan 2004 Posts: 2796 Location: Cairns Nth Qld
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 10:56 am Post subject: |
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In my experience Smiths/Vdo electric gauges aren't that accurate, but to check you can do an easy two point calibration, drop the sender first into an ice bath ie cup with crushed ice and 80% water, stir occasionally this will give you a zero reference, next get an old jug fill to near the top and get it on a rolling boil, position the sender so it is just in the water, this will give you 100degC. At least this way you will have a reference as to where the needle sits at two known points. If you can afford it always go with direct reading or liquid filled gauges as they are a lot more accurate
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 11:16 am Post subject: |
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I was hoping to find a decent mga oil temp combined mechanical gauge but i need to track one down at a decent price.. hence electric is fine for now
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libbor Banned for bullying.
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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The problem with those is that they are a mechanical gauge with capillary tube. Personally, I dont like them but each to their own.
Australian built cars mostly have vdo as standard. As i see it the car is either overheating or not. Temp gauges have a movement range of about 7 degrees from when it starts to move until it reaches its high point.
It doesnt really matter where the needle sits. As long as it finds its spot and stays there. If its starts to rise, your car is overheating. Thats why cars dont have temperature readings on their gauges anymore. They give you an operating range as as long as the needle is within those two marks, its fine. Its the same as the diagram you showed us in your first post on this subject with the 1200 temp gauge.
For efi cars the temperature the engine runs at is more crucial. Thats why cars with efi engines warm up very quick compared to non efi cars. The manufacturers are trying to get the engines up to normal operating temperature asap so that the engine management system can go into 'closed loop' mode which allows the ecu to take over and operate the engine as eco friendly as possible.
Not as crucial with carburetted engines.
Cheers
Last edited by libbor on Thu May 12, 2011 2:12 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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I really don't mind either.. as long as i have an eye on the pulse and it's a relative range.. you get used to it..
like in my mini the fuel gauge was at a quarter when the tank was actually bone dry.. caught me out once and never let it catch me out again!
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mollythemoggie Full Licence
Joined: 23 Jun 2009 Posts: 633 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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with the water temp gauge where would you take the wire for the spade?
i.e. 1 spade sender, split a bulb light from speedo for gauge bulb.. 1 wire to power from ign back? i.e. split the fuel gauge wire?
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libbor Banned for bullying.
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