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New beginning for my '52 Series II Convertable

 
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Greg Capern
I've got trainer wheels


Joined: 30 Nov 2010
Posts: 16
Location: Rockhampton Qld.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: New beginning for my '52 Series II Convertable Reply with quote

Hi All,
I've started this thread to log the progress of my morries new life. I picked up the pieces (literally) from a lad near Ipswich about a year ago. This project will be one for the patient as it is sure to be a bit of a ben hur of a job. I've come from a background where my wife would ring RACQ if I lifted the bonnet of a car. After about ten years of plugging away with things mechanical, I'm now throwing myself and my mechanical P plates into this project. Thankfully I have some gurus of the welding and mechanical type who are happy to help. (As long as I prevent their dehydration.)








Obviously this car has had a life. I've decided to go the mod and have recently acquired 4k with 5 speed, ke55 rear, tailshaft, handbrake asbly, fuel tank.







Current tasks are split between prepping for the rust surgery




and restoring the front end. Luckily the local wrecker has a decent ke55 from which I'll extract the front brakes, brake booster and radiator this weekend.

I will be parting with the old drive train if anyone is hunting for series II rear end, tailshaft, gearbox, 802cc OHV engine, front seats plus a bit more.

Anyway, I'm getting a bit used to this forum thing so hopefully I won't make too many silly newbee comments.

Cheers
Greg


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blakeand1
I can steer now


Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 162
Location: loganholme , brisbane

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:14 pm    Post subject: good luck Reply with quote

Hi Greg ,
Looks like a great project . Please keep us updated and lots of pictures.
Good luck . Blake



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graham
At rest


Joined: 06 Dec 2008
Posts: 744
Location: Wanguri NT

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

G'day Greg

Welcome to our little community and good luck with your project.
Pictures are always a good idea.
Being just in the tropics are you putting air con in your car?

Cheers
Graham
Very Happy Very Happy Blue Sedan Very Happy Very Happy



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58 2 door with Mazda 13B. Morris 13/160 Previous: First car $60 2 door 45years ago.

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An unreasonable man does not.
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Kustombruce
valued contributor


Joined: 09 Sep 2003
Posts: 603
Location: Canberra, where they put creative spirit in the water

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greg
Takes me back to when I started on my SII convertible many years ago.

Some things to think about.

Put the doors back on and get the gaps right then brace the body to stop it moving when you start on the rust repairs.
You need to brace between the doors A to B pillar, across the body from B pillar to B pillar and if possible top of windscreen frame to the front of the rear wheel well.

Also, bare metal will rust really quick so get some lanolin (sheep oil) over every inch of the steel.
Use POR15 paint to protect the underside and inside once the repairs are done.

Good luck

Bruce



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Clockwork Orange
Because what I'm doing is Ultra Violent
1960 Kustom LCV
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Greg Capern
I've got trainer wheels


Joined: 30 Nov 2010
Posts: 16
Location: Rockhampton Qld.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, I had a slow start but am now pretty addicted and getting to do a couple of hours a day.

Thanks Kustombruce for the tips. Very timely as my welding guru is coming friday week to help me sort the body out. I'll have time to follow your advice and have it ready for him.

I've ordered my neoprene bush kit from Bull Motif in the UK, but still have to get some front suspension bits. I would love to hear of any good morry shopping experiences over the net as I'm sure to find more tired bits that have to be replaced.

Cheers
Greg


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Lukezaid
Full Licence


Joined: 01 Feb 2010
Posts: 391
Location: Woolgoolga

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow looks like it used to be owned by the flash Embarassed


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Kustombruce
valued contributor


Joined: 09 Sep 2003
Posts: 603
Location: Canberra, where they put creative spirit in the water

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have purchased a lot from Bull Motif, never had a problem, they are good for door rubbers and wind lacing and chrome parts (boot & bonnet hinges, grill bits, badges ETC)

For most of your mechanical parts Autopro and Repco will usually have what you want.

Bruce



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Clockwork Orange
Because what I'm doing is Ultra Violent
1960 Kustom LCV
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bigcarle
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Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 578
Location: lota, brisbane bayside

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PM sent



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morrisman1
I can steer now


Joined: 12 Jul 2007
Posts: 201
Location: Invercargill, New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking like a great start there Greg! Is that body bare metal? Its the best way to go in my opinion. Costs a fortune but gives you confidence in the vehicle and that it will last many years of adventurous touring.



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Greg Capern
I've got trainer wheels


Joined: 30 Nov 2010
Posts: 16
Location: Rockhampton Qld.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bodies been blasted and primed. Sadly the dudes who did it weren't very fussy and I found clumps of grease, clay and general crap under the primer in a few spots. I'm just going to poke around and clean and prime the bits they missed. I am lucky the engine stands make it easy to get at. Unfortunately though the house is about 6 inches too low preventing me from being able to flip the chassis completely.


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Greg Capern
I've got trainer wheels


Joined: 30 Nov 2010
Posts: 16
Location: Rockhampton Qld.

PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,
I lost last weekend to scraping about a bucket full of grease, oil, dirt and other fossilised rubbish from under the chassis. Wire brushed, degreased, cleaned, prepped and primed. Painful job but at least it's done now.

Putting the doors back on this arvo to brace up and prepare for the rust removal and welding of new panels , floor pan etc.

On the side, i've been poking along, sorting out the front end. Start next week using my lunch break at work to machine some corolla stub axles to fit the morry upright.

Does anyone have any info on servicing damper's? or indeed are they serviceable? Drivers side front provides almost no resistance. My manual only extends to how to refill. What fluid should go into these things??

Cheers
Greg


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